The Uniform Guide

1. If you have excessive boot cancer or have new boots with wax, you need to strip them. Stripping is done by placing the boot under hot water and then scrubbing with a horsehair brush or toothbrush until the polish is removed; to check if the polish is removed, stretch the boot with your nail. If any material comes off, then continue curbing. If not your done with step 1
2. Use a horse Hair Brush and gently remove dust from the boot, be sure to clean any boot cancer off.
3. Polish Welts, take a toothbrush and dip it in your polish. Go around the welts and apply a little polish to blacken them.
4. Apply a base coat, wrap the polishing cloth over your finger and ensure there are no wrinkles beneath, dip your finger into some water, apply a large amount of polish but do not rub it in, and make sure the application is smooth but the surface should be a matt grey/black. Let the boot rest for 5-10 minutes. Take a horsehair brush and buff the layer. The layer should begin to have a sheen.
   1. To add extra base layers, take a sizeable amount of polish, apply it to the boot, then buff with horsehair
5. Polishing layer, apply minimal polish to your cloth in the same method as previously detailed (see step 4), but this time with more water. You can also add some water to the polish on your finger. In small circles, go around the desired area; your boot will first go dull, and then, as the polish is applied, you will begin to see the boot shine. Repeat this step until you achieve a good finish.

Note: for regular polishing, use steps 1 and 5. If the boot has endured damage or heavy wear, repeat step 4.1.

Definitions

• Base Layer: A thick layer of polish to be applied to fixture significant imperfections in the boot, applied in a thick layer and buffed with horsehair; use more polish than water
• Polishing Layer: A thin coat is used to fix minor imperfections; you should use more water than polish. Materials Needed: Kiwi Polishing Kit check Walmart; they usually stock them

To ensure proper creasing on your pants, it is recommended to starch them. To properly starch your pants start by spraying an aqueous solution of starch on the inside of your pants, then crease them down the middle front and back. To ensure proper storage, use a pant hanger and store them folded along your creases.

• NEVER: Use glue or other adhesive to attach insignias. This will wreck the uniform (remember they are on loan to you)
• Get someone to help you mark where to put your insignias, then roughly attach them and double-check before properly sewing them on.
• Make sure to sew on your insignias, and do not make pencil holders.

Sewing Diagrams

For the exact placement of badges/accoutrements, check the complete uniform orders.

• Cut out the inside of the beret, avoiding cutting off areas that secure the badge and ventilation holes.
• Place the beret on your head, step into your shower, align the badge with the center of your left eye, and hook your thumb beneath it; turn on the shower and shape the beret by pulling to the right and smoothing the top. Once you are done with your shower, dry it with a cloth, place it over an inverted bowl without losing shape, or let it dry on your head.

• Wedge/turban with Air Cadet headdress insignia
• Cloth cap badge.
• Environmental dress shirt.
• Necktie.
• Jacket with a belt.
• Trousers.
• Belt.
• Boots.
• Socks.
• Medals.
• Pins.
• Cloth glider power pilot badge.

• Environmental dress shirt (white dress shirt optional).
• Necktie (black bow tie optional).
• Jacket.
• Trousers with belts.
• Boots.
• Socks.
• Ribbons.
• Pins.

• Wedge, beret/turban with Air
• Cadet headdress insignia, toque or wide-brimmed tan summer hat.
• Field shirt.
• Rank slip-on.
• Environmental (blue) / squadron / CTC t-shirt.
• Field pants and belt.
• Socks.
• Multi-Purpose Boots (alternative footwear may be authorized when necessary based on the activity).

Note: Can be worn with sleeves rolled up